Short Break in Krabi (Thailand)

With a few days of holiday time to spare we thought we might just drive on up to Thailand. It seemed like a plan - and then we discovered that our rental car can't be driven across the Thai border. So with Thailand so close we could almost taste it, we decided to go anyway and fly there.

Getting to Krabi.

Krabi is on the west coast of Thailand, slightly north of Phuket - as you can see from this map. The resort where we stayed is only accessible by boat, being on a peninsular among the steep cliffs and islands.

To go anywhere from Kuala Terengganu, we have to go to Kuala Lumpur first. We were delighted to find that we could fly to KL, and then to Krabi in the same day and not have to sleep over in KL.

We were met at Krabi airport by a man holding a sign with our name on it (it's always a comfort when they do that!) and whisked away in a white van through the town of Krabi.

 Clearly we weren't in Malaysia any more ... but in many ways it is very similar.

 We noticed a lot of motorbikes, as well as these vehicles

but we were a little surprised to be asked to shift out of our comfortable air-conditioned van and into one of these.

As it turned out, the tide was really really low,

And the van couldn't go along this narrow jetty to where the boats were now accessible from.

So then we caught our first sight of the long-tailed boats, the water-taxis that run all over the place here.

These boats have a tall prow - unlike the local Malay boats where the prow reaches out flat like a platform - and the owners like to decorate it with coloured cloth streamers.

The boat motor is huge like a truck motor, and sits up high spewing black smoke with accompanying loud noise. The propeller is at the end of a long shaft, about 4 metres long. But the ride is comfortable enough on the wooden seats.

We set off around the headland with a boatload of other tourists.

All around were islands and cliffs, and the ocean was beautiful and clear.

Here and there we saw tourists climbing the cliffs.

Railay Bay Resort

We had booked ourselves into a privacy chalet at the resort.

We had a lovely, spacious air-conditioned room, and a private courtyard with our own outside spa bath.

The dining area right next to the beach provided a lovely relaxing setting for meals.

 

The bay, surrounded by beautiful cliffs, is a great spot for swimming, with plenty of space for the long-tailed boats to come and go.

Island Hopping

We booked an island-hopping tour on the second day, visiting 7-8 islands and beaches.

 We set off in that white speed-boat with our bathers, towels, snorkels etc.

The scenery was spectacular, and we didn't mind too much that we had got wet up to our knees getting into the boat.

Our first visit was (if I remember rightly) Bamboo Island. The beach was beautiful and there was hardly anyone there.

Except for this monitor lizard who seemed to think that we were on his turf.

Then we went on to an enclosed bit of ocean.

Dozens of boats full of tourists had already come through the narrow gap in the cliffs to have a look at this idyllic section of water called "The Room" - or "bilik".

 Just outside the "room", the boats stopped one by one to look into this cave where a number of local workers live full-time in order to get the much-coveted swallow's nests.

Then we went to see the bay where the movie "The Beach" was made (with Leonardo Di Caprio). In the movie it's a beautiful isolated place ... in real life it is packed with tourists!

It was difficult to actually find a parking space for the boat, and the beach and pathways were overrun with visitors.

A tiny swimming area was roped off, to stop swimmers mingling with speed-boats, and Peter had a bit of a dip and some face-time with local fish.

 

Then we went to Phi Phi Island (that's pronounced "pee pee") where we all trooped ashore for some lunch, and a wander up and down a narrow lane lined with tourist stalls - there was nothing there we wanted except we found a little air-conditioned shop selling ice-cream, out of the madding rush for a few minutes.

By now the tide was very very low. We had to wade out to the boat, and some boats had trouble getting out of the bay. We headed out just a short way, and everyone jumped in for some snorkeling. The Asian tourists grabbed life-vests because we were in fairly deep water - Peter and I float regardless.

Peter dived down with our little Lumix camera, and took some nice shots of the local life.

The coral itself wasn't madly colourful, but there were lots of colourful things in and around it.

This angel fish led Peter on quite a chase before he managed to snap it.

Our guide, Nicky had warned us about these - the sea urchins - stepping on them can give a very painful sting - and said this was why we should stay in the deeper water so we don't have accidental stings.

Then he surprised us  all by bringing one on the boat for us to have a close look at it. The thing was writhing around in his hand as he held it high and dry.

Exploring Railay Bay

That evening there was a delightful sunset to watch looking out from our restaurant.

The next morning we went walking across to the other side of the peninsular, and then down another path to a third beach at the end of the peninsular hidden between the rocky cliffs. We had just settled into the warm, clear water at the deserted beach, when the tourist boats arrived with hundreds of Asian tourists visiting a cave with some sort of a shrine in it.

We disappeared into a watery cave for a lovely swim.

There are a number of little islands and caves right close to Railay Bay,  so we rented a canoe and went for a bit of a paddle around.

After all the climbing in and out of boats and swimming and walking I was beginning to feel my age (aagghh!) and Peter persuaded me to make use of the spa - I had a relaxing massage with this delightful little Thai lady!

The tide went out again, too far to even allow a decent swim in our own bay. So we retired to our chalet and our private spa for a few hours.

In the morning it was time to get up and head back to Malaysia,

Yeah, it would be nice to visit Krabi again some time!

And it's nice to be back in Terengganu.

Sleeping in the Trees

With the monsoon bearing down on us, we went for one last island visit.

First, a visit to the market at Marang before boarding the speedboat to the island. Still sore from my slip down the steps the previous week, I was very relieved to see that the ocean was doldrumy and  silky-smooth so that the boat-ride didn't add to my bruises.

 We stayed in one of the tree-houses at the 'Qimi' resort - somewhat more upmarket from the previous places we have stayed.

These cabins are built into the hillside, blending in with the trees, constructed out of mostly local timber and rocks off the beach - we watched as they started building a new one while we were there, grabbing stones directly out of the waves.

 Our spacious cabin came with a king-size bed, complete with comfortable (non-mouldy) mattress, as well as wardrobe, table, and chairs (unlike at some of the other resorts).

 There is a bathroom (without going down stairs!) complete with bath - though no hot water! - and a second 'outside' bathroom with a shower built around a tree-trunk.

 They not only provide towels, but they fold them into little swans!

And just down there is the dining room and lounge area.

 

They sent up a complimentary plate of delicious, fresh, colourful fruits (and a flower) - of course I had to polish off the beautiful mango before it got to Peter with his allergy!

 

 Then we went down to the lounge to mull through the bookshelf - people read a lot in these resorts, and a kind of book exchange has developed naturally. (Unfortunately almost all of them were in German.)

 Peter had a bit of a chat with one of the chaps, talking about islands and building materials - the man showed him where they had incorporated palm logs into the building structures.

 Then we settled down to read, and stare at the sea, and relax.

The resort has a nice section of beach, boasting some of the best coral around the island.

Maybe because of the approaching monsoon, the water was full of jellies - although most of them seemed to be tentacle-less and dying. We saw a couple of massive ones one the beach, about a metre across, but nothing like that in the water.

The coral was as beautiful as ever, with delightful little surprises that pop out here and there.

 And of course there were plenty of clown-fish going out and in and out ...

Peter made some new friends - a couple of little eels that he hadn't seen before.

In the evening they put tablecloths and candles on the tables under the trees on the beach.

We had a lovely meal of prawns and noodles served in a clay pot. And then we went up to our big bed in the trees to read and relax.

oh... there was the other little thing...

When we got up there I was a little startled to come face-to-face with a large, brown rat! He was kinda cute-looking, round-faced - not one of those disgusting evil-looking rats! He had come for the treats we had brought from the market on the mainland (and left unwrapped!) Well that was fine, except he didn't want to leave, and we wanted to go to bed. We spent a little time chasing him around under the bed, behind the wardrobe, behind the curtains ... and finally out the door!

It COULD have been worse!

I'm sitting on the edge of my seat - not out of eagerness, but in order to reduce the pain ...

The weather has gone weird. One minute there is no horizon where the silky ocean melts into the sky, and there is not a breath of breeze. Then we hear a rumble in the distance. Soon the wind starts, blowing first from one direction and then swinging around to another. Clouds appear, and sometimes storm systems appear to collide in the swirling winds and flashing lightning. And then there is the downpour ....
And everyone says it looks like the monsoon might come early this year (not that anyone ever really knows, but they like to guess). Which means the islands will soon close, and we need to get out there as much as we can.

Our main man on Kapas, Zai, has quit his job - too many Europeans turning up in his restaurant demanding breakfast at 7am. So we have started looking around at the other resorts.

Kapas Beach Chalet (above) is a pleasant resort with heaps of interesting greenery.

This time we got hold of Hans, at the "Kapas Beach Chalet", and booked one of his cabins. (We have visited there before, but never stayed in the cabins there.)

When we got on the speedboat on the mainland, we were joined by three other couples, including a lady who was carried on by her partner, and was accompanied by a wheelchair and various other bits of paraphernalia.

Thinking she was very brave to go to a sandy island in a wheelchair, we soon noticed her very Australian (Perth) accent and got talking.

Here we are just setting off from Marang on the mainland (above).

We found that she was a triathlete living in Kuala Lumpur up until last November when a car drove into her on her bike, breaking her back. With great determination she has regained a lot of mobility after the original diagnosis that she would be a quadriplegic, and looks forward to eventually walking again. Having lived in Malaysia for a number of years and frequently visiting Kapas, this was her first return to the island since her accident. We found her and her friends charming to talk to - and thoroughly enjoyed hearing Aussie accents for a change - so we said we would come and visit them in their resort later in the day.

Our chalet is the second on the left (above).

We settled into our quaint little chalet, and went for a swim. The ocean - as usual - was warm and clear, and the fishes seemed glad to see us! Returning to the chalet, Peter headed down the cement steps into our chalet bathroom ...

... and slipped. He hit his back and hip on the corner/edge of the steps, banged his head on the wall, and somehow (we are not sure how) broke the sink off the wall. I stood there thinking about our new friend in the wheelchair, and wondering how broken Peter was.

He was okay - few funny looking bruises, but not too much pain. We managed to re-attach the sink, but not the drain part - everything flows out through a hole at the bottom of the wall anyway.

We wandered down to see our Aussie friends in the "Qimi" resort - one where we have never (yet) stayed, and found the two men were not there, only the two ladies. They had left some vital medication in Kuala Lumpur and the two men had taken a boat back to the mainland and driven frantically back to KL to get it (5 hours each way!) and were hoping to be back during the night. So we spent a couple of happy hours keeping our new friend company.

The reception area at Qimi Resort - many of the facilities here are built in stone (above).

Relaxing in the restaurant at Qimi's until the storm passes (above).

Just as we were leaving, the thunder rumbled and the rain crashed down, so we sat in the restaurant a while. Then we took a look around and booked ourselves a room there for next week! (They are quite a bit more expensive than the other resorts, but very nice and we are looking forward to the change.)

Our friend decided to join us in the restaurant, so one of the local men was roped in to transport her from her room to the restaurant.

Qimi staff bring our friend to join us in the restaurant (below).

This morning, I got up to go for my 7am swim - as I usually do when we stay on Kapas. It was a rather grey-looking morning, and I didn't really feel like a swim, but I know that I always feel so good after ...

The water was a little cool and looked clear, but there were things hitting me all over - it was like swimming in soup. One or two of them made my skin sting a little - the water was full of tiny, tiny jellyfish - I remember this happened once before.

Feeling a little disgruntled after such a short and not so pleasant swim, I headed down the steps into our bathroom...

I could not believe it as my head hit the wall, there was a searing pain in my hip and bum (below the tail-bone, fortunately) and I turned around to see that somehow I had knocked the sink off the wall again - no memory of touching it!

Back home on the mainland now, sitting on the edge of my chair because sitting back puts pressure on my bruises.

But it COULD have been much much worse!!